A: Yes! We weigh out a suitable amount of seeds for one tray to make growing super easy.

A: The bottom tray with the capillary mat slots inside in your wooden frame first. Next is the seed tray with your hydrated coir and sown seeds. Then your top tray is placed upside-down like a hat to keep the initial phase of the grow in darkness. Each tray is labelled, and we include a diagram with all orders and you can also see this diagram on each grow kit product page.

A: 500ml of water is generally enough to hydrate your coir block. They can vary quite a lot in the speed in which they hydrate, depending on the density of the coir - sometimes using a clean spoon to break up the block is necessary.
During your grows, it’s a good idea to check the moisture level every day - in general, microgreens prefer water added to the capillary mat in the bottom tray, where it’s sucked up through the holes in the seed tray. Only spray the top of the coir during a grow when the coir turns a lighter colour (and the tray feels very light in weight).

A: Every household will have totally unique conditions - your own personal microclimate - and this changes depending on weather and season. Windowsills are generally ideal for the placement of microgreens during their grow in order for them to receive the most natural light. However, if you’ve got a very hot windowsill, we recommend placing your micros in a cooler position for your blackout phase (when the top tray is upside down blocking out light). You can then move your frame to the windowsill when you expose your micros to light (phase 3 on the instructions).

A: The most important spray is after sprinkling your seeds during the sowing, to maximise the seed-to-coir contact, and a couple of squirts during the blackout phase every day to keep moisture levels up. Only spray the top of the coir during a grow when the coir turns a lighter colour (and the tray feels very light in weight).

A: Add water to your capillary mat in your bottom tray when you expose your micros to light after the blackout duration. Keep an eye on the moisture level of the mat from then onwards, adding a little when it feels quite dry (but never add more water than the internal line of the tray).

A: They will be leaning towards the light - rotate the tray 180 degrees and you’ll find they straighten up. You might need to rotate a few times during the grow - they just love the light!

A: Give the suspected mould a spray of water. If it disappears then it is most likely root hairs - phew! If it doesn't disappear it may be mould. If it is only affecting a small area of your tray we suggest digging out the affected area with a clean spoon, so the mould does not spread. You may then want to give your microgreens a blast of fresh air outside if it’s not too cold. Keep an eye going forward, and message us if you have any queries at all.

A: Root hairs are comprised of epidermal cells and are important in acquiring nutrients and water. They look fuzzy and fluffy, and tend to cover the whole of the surface.

A: You can’t really go wrong - in theory, your microgreens are edible from the moment they germinate - sprouting is another method of ingesting veggies at an early stage for maximum nutrient value (usually via a sprouting jar so to not eat any growing medium, i.e. coir). Growing them on as microgreens is thought to offer the most flavour. Each micro is different, but in general, brassica microgreens (broccoli, cabbage, rocket, kale, mustard) are often eaten just before they’re ‘true’ leaves are formed. The flavour of herb microgreens is often more intense after the pair of true leaves form.

A: The first pair of leaves that appear are called “cotyledons” or seed leaves. If grown for longer, true leaves appear and they resemble the look of the adult leaves - often more detailed. Cotyledons are generally quite simple and smooth in shape.

A: Tall and leggy seedlings will generally be due to a lack of light. It could be that your microgreens were under the blackout dome for a little longer than their strength can handle! Other possible explanations are that the windowsill you are growing your seedlings on doesn’t provide enough light, or it could be that the lights you are using as grow lights aren't close enough to the seedling. We offer grow lights in our shop if you’re worried your windowsill doesn’t receive enough natural light.

A: In general, no. Plants need to be cut at a leaf junction or ‘node’ to sprout again. Pea Shoots and Nasturtium ‘Blue Pepe’ are the main two that often regrow if you harvest at a leaf junction. Leek Shoots have also been known to regrow even and they don’t have any nodes - feel free to give it a go! 

A: Yes! If you have a few micros that sneakily missed harvest, or you intentionally leave a few - pot them on into soil and into their own small pot and you can grow them on and plant in planters or in outside beds as you would with any other vegetable.